Mac & Cheese in Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland

Our first sight of the Lauterbrunnen valley made us think a giant took an enormous hatchet to the Bernese Alps, neatly cleaving them in two! Vertical cliffs, a thousand metres high, rise on both sides of the serene little village of Lauterbrunnen. Waterfalls plummet from the rocky precipices, adding to the stunning beauty of the landscape.

Lauterbrunnen, a short train ride from the city of Interlaken, has been a popular tourist attraction for centuries. The German poet Goethe stayed here in the 18th century and composed a poem inspired by the beauty of his surroundings. J. R. R. Tolkien hiked through the valley in 1911, and later immortalized it as the home of the elves in “Lord of the Rings”. Walking through the lush meadows that lie on the valley floor while gazing up at the snowy peaks in the distance makes it is easy to believe that you are in an enchanted place.

The valley gets the name Lauterbrunnen, which means “many springs”, from the dozens of waterfalls that surge over the edge of the cliffs and plunge into the valley below. The largest are the Staubbach Falls which cascade down a sheer rock face and create a tumult that can be heard a long way before you reach them.

The village of Mürren lies on the mountain above the Lauterbrunnen valley and can be reached by four to five hours of uphill walking, something recommended only for the reasonably fit. Of course, this being Switzerland, there is a cable car available that will take you there much faster and with a lot less effort.

Mürren is perched on the edge of a cliff and offers spectacular views of the Eiger and Jungfrau mountains. We had a long leisurely lunch sitting on the sunny, open terrace of the hotel Alpenruh, gazing out over the valley and eating crisp rostii with local sausages.

A short distance from Mürren is the picture perfect village of Gimmelwald, which encapsulates everything that you imagine Switzerland to be like. Towering Alpine peaks rise all around you. Green, grassy meadows dotted with wildflowers stretch out to the horizon.
Cows graze on the hillsides and the tinkling of their bells fills the air. Ice-cold spring water gushes from pipes thoughtfully placed along the walking trail. You only have to soak it all in and marvel at its beauty. A network of trails connect Mürren and Gimmelwald, making it a perfect area for hiking.

We highly recommend coming back to a comforting, warming dinner of Alplermagronen after a day spent on the snowy slopes of the Alps! This Swiss style macaroni and cheese dish is named after the traditional herdsmen of these Alpine regions. Easy to prepare, it is hearty and filling with the pasta and potatoes and rich with cream and cheese. Sometimes sausages or bacon are also added for a meaty taste but those are optional. Alplermagronen is usually served with applesauce on the side which adds a delicious sweet tart note to the dish.

Mac and Cheese, the ultimate comfort food is raised to even greater heights by the addition of caramelized onions and crispy bacon bits, adding a hint of smokiness to the dish. The bacon is optional but the caramelized onions are a must! You can either make your own or buy store bought crispy fried onions, both work well.

Mac & Cheese (Alplermagronen)

5 slices bacon, cut into small pieces

2 large onions, halved and thinly sliced

2 tbsp butter or olive oil

1 tbsp all purpose flour

1/2 cup whipping cream

3/4 cup milk

2 cups about (160g) grated Gruyere cheese, divided

Salt to taste

1/4 tsp grated nutmeg

1 medium Yukon Gold or other potato, cooked, peeled and cubed

2 cups (250g) elbow macaroni, penne, ziti or similar tubular pasta cooked until just done

Applesauce (store bought or home made) for serving

Preheat oven to 400F.

Warm medium sized frying pan over medium heat. Add bacon pieces, stir and cook until they are crispy and have rendered their fat, about 4 min. Remove to a paper towel lined plate.

Drain all but 1 tbsp of bacon fat from pan (set over medium low heat this time). Add butter or olive oil and sliced onions. Saute, stirring occasionally until they are golden and caramelized, about 15-20 minutes. Remove all but 1 tbsp of the caramelized onions to a plate.

To the onions in the pan, add 1 tbsp of the reserved cooked bacon bits and the all purpose flour. Cook, stirring for about 30 sec, then add the cream and milk, stirring gently to thicken, about 30 sec.

Add 1 1/2 cups of the grated cheese, salt and nutmeg. Switch off stove.

Add the cooked, cubed potato and cooked pasta. Stir gently until cheese has melted and sauce is coating the pasta, about 1 min. If the sauce seems too thick, add another splash of milk or cream to loosen it.

Transfer to a baking dish, top with remaining 1/2 cup cheese and bake for 15 min until cheese has melted and turned lightly golden.

Top baked pasta with the reserved caramelized onions and reserved bacon bits. Serve with applesauce on the side.

Serves four