Mango Lassi In Jodhpur, India

Craning our necks to gaze up at the towering ramparts of Mehrangarh in Jodhpur, our first thought was that this was a fort for people who did not trust their neighbours! The Rathore rulers of Jodhpur built the imposing fortifications in the fifteenth century to defend themselves from the surrounding clans with whom they were constantly at war. The castle was never conquered and remained the seat of the Rathore dynasty for centuries. It is now one of the most popular tourist sights in Rajasthan, which we had long wanted to visit.

An elevator whisked us up to the highest level of the fort, saving us from the gruelling climb the original inhabitants had to do. We emerged into the residence where the kings of Jodhpur once lived and suddenly we were in a different world away from the forbidding exterior of the fort. This was a fairy tale palace built for luxury and comfort. We walked along airy corridors lined with carved pillars that opened into exquisitely carved balconies. Looking down we could imagine musicians playing and dancers pirouetting in the open courtyards below while the queens observed unseen.

An entire level of the palace was the Zenana, or the quarters for women. According to Rajput custom royal women were not to be seen in public. The rooms have balconies with finely filigreed screens through which women of the royal household could see festivities and parades outside without being observed. Galleries in the palace preserve old treasures such as paintings, textiles, and palanquins.

The Phool Mahal, the Palace of Flowers, gives a glimpse into the splendour of the maharajas who lived here. The walls and ceilings of the huge room are covered in intricate paintings. Stained glass windows let in light that shines off gold covered pillars lining the hall. We found it an enchanting place to wander around and marvel at those opulent times.

Just outside Mehrangarh is another popular attraction, the Jaswanth Thada, a mausoleum built to honour a nineteenth century ruler. It is built out of brilliant white marble with exquisite carvings throughout. The beautifully laid out gardens are a lovely place to cool off and share a picnic.

Below Mehrangarh is the Sardar Market, a popular place in the heart of Jodhpur to buy handicrafts, clothes, glass bangles and spices. The Ghanta Ghar is a landmark in the market, a nineteenth century clock tower that sounds out the hours and regulates life in the market till today. Sardar Market is also a popular spot to try Jodhpur’s famous Makhania lassi, a yogurt drink that locals line up for! The best place to get it is Shri Mishri Lal hotel, a small, non descript eatery that has been supplying locals with delicious lassi for close to a hundred years. The lassi here is thick, creamy, rich, sweet and needs a spoon instead of a straw to get it inside you!

This wonderful lassi is perfect for sipping all summer long, keep a jug of it in your fridge at all times! You can make plain lassi if you wish, by omitting the mango puree from the recipe and substituting it with more yogurt instead. Good mangoes are hard to find year around so canned puree works well, or use 1 cup peeled, cubed ripe fresh mango if available.