Prawn Curry In Galle, Sri Lanka
Standing on the walls of Galle Fort and gazing out over the brilliant blue waters of the Indian Ocean, we found it hard to reconcile the beauty of the surroundings with the intimidating ramparts from which cannon still protrude, menacing all those who approach. Galle owes both its charm and its need for vigilance to its location on the southern coast of Sri Lanka, which makes it the perfect port for ships crossing the sea. Galle was already a busy harbour when the Portuguese landed in the sixteenth century and built a stronghold. A century later the Dutch seized the port and constructed the extensive fortifications that we see today. They controlled Galle for 150 years, only to lose it to the British. The town of Galle, and the fort, reflect all these different layers of history.
Fortunately the fort is no longer threatened by invasion, except by hordes of tourists. We spent a lovely afternoon wandering through the narrow lanes of the town. The barracks that once housed soldiers of the garrison are now occupied by cafes, boutiques, art galleries and museums. The old Dutch church and administrative buildings still stand and are well worth visiting. The fort is surrounded on three sides by the ocean and as we walked on the walls we had spectacular views of the surrounding waters.
Whereas Galle has been shaped by Europeans, the Dambulla Cave Temples which we visited before Galle are a product of Sri Lanka’s ancient history. The earliest part of the temple dates to the second century BCE, but subsequent Sri Lankan kings expanded it and made further additions. Today Dambulla is a functioning Buddhist monastery and a major religious centre. It consists of five enormous caves set in a massive rock cliff, that house statues of the Buddha, figures from Buddhist mythology, Hindu gods, and ancient kings.
We had to walk up a steep staircase to mount Dambulla Rock, on top of which the caves are located. The climb was strenuous, but worth the effort, for the view of the surrounding countryside is spectacular from the top of the rock. The temples are equally magnificent. Statues of the Buddha have been hewn out of rock and painted in brilliant golden hues that remain undimmed by the passage of time. The ceilings are covered with paintings of scenes from the life of the Buddha and stories from Sri Lankan history. Viewed in the dim light of the cave interiors the endless rows of figures are truly mesmerizing and awe inspiring.
One of the highlights of our stay in Galle was the incredible variety of seafood preparations we got to try. Beach shacks lined the waterfront beside our hotel and we could smell the tantalizing aromas of fresh cooked seafood as we walked along the beach. Deciding which beach shack to eat at was the best part of our walk! The tables and chairs were placed right on the sand and it was a wonderful experience to bury our toes in the cool sand while enjoying a hot and spicy crab or prawn curry or a grilled lobster. This prawn curry below was one of our favourite dishes and I was delighted to find how easy it is to recreate those flavours at home and bring back memories of those magical Galle evenings on the beach!
A delicious shrimp curry with deep, complex flavours of roasted spices, this dish showcases the wealth of seafood in Sri Lanka and one of the many wonderful ways to use it. For more Sri Lankan recipes, check out Coconut Chicken Curry.
Prawn Curry
1 lb. large raw prawns (shrimp), shelled and deveined
1 1/2 tsp Roasted Sri Lankan Curry Powder, divided
Salt to taste
2 tbsp oil, preferably coconut oil
4 each, whole spices: green cardamom, cloves
1 inch stick cinnamon
1 mdm red onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/2 inch piece ginger, grated or finely chopped
20 fresh curry leaves
1/2 tsp each: turmeric, cayenne pepper (chilli powder), ground fennel powder, ground black pepper
2 large ripe tomatoes, chopped
2 fresh green chillies, slit down the centre, optional
1 cup rich coconut milk
2 tbsp fresh lime juice
2 tbsp chopped fresh coriander
Place shrimp in a deep bowl and add 1/2 tsp each of the curry powder and salt. Mix well and refrigerate covered to marinate until needed later in the recipe.
Warm oil in deep skillet set over medium heat.
Add whole spices and cinnamon stick, allow to fry for 30 sec.
Add garlic and ginger, saute for 30 sec.
Add onions and curry leaves, saute for about 8 min until onions are softened and lightly browned.
Add salt, remaining 1 tsp curry powder and all the spices, stirring to mix well.
Add tomatoes and cook for 5 min, stirring and mashing occasionally until thickened and blended into the sauce.
Add green chillies, coconut milk and 1/2 cup water, mixing well.
Bring sauce to a gentle boil, then reduce heat to low and cook uncovered for 10 min, stirring occasionally.
Add shrimp to the sauce, stir gently to mix and cook uncovered for about 5 min, stirring occasionally until shrimp are just cooked through and pink.
Fold in the lime juice and chopped fresh coriander and transfer curry to a serving bowl.
Serve right away with warm basmati rice on the side.
Serves Four
